This may seem pedestrian as a recipe title, but given it is something we all make regularly, why not make it notably delicious every time. It may well be that the way you make scrambled eggs is borne of habit rather than culinary common sense. There are a few key things to do to get this dish right. Serve with big doorstops of brioche, to soak up the egg and provide a luxurious pillowy mouthfeel that a thin slice of granary bread just wouldn’t provide. Have the eggs at room temperature so it cooks evenly. When scrambling, start off with the butter slightly hotter than you may expect, so you get a ruffled, light scramble as the egg cooks and coagulates. Done this way, there should be strands of cooked egg, almost like stracciatella. Then reduce the heat and keep working with a spatula so it doesn’t stick. Don’t use a whisk or you will break up those velvety strands of egg and have a more fragmented end result. By adding the cream at the end, you are helping arrest the cooking process so the eggs stay loose. As a general guide, cook the eggs less than you think; they should be quite wet and only just able to support their own weight. Use the freshest eggs available. A fresh egg, when cracked onto a plate, will have a definite outline to the albumen and stay quite tight, whereas an older egg will spread out on the plate and have a watery, less viscous appearance.
8 Eggs (at room temperature)
50g Salted butter
100g Whipping cream
- Crack the eggs into a bowl and whisk them.
- Heat the butter in a wide pan on a medium heat until just sizzling and hot but not starting to colour.
- Add the eggs and leave for the base of the pan for about 10 seconds to coagulate, then using a spatula, beat the eggs regularly but quite gently until they are fluffy and barely set over a low heat, adding the salt as you do so.
- At this point, remove from the heat and add the cream to arrest the cooking, mixing it in without breaking up the ruffles of egg too much. Check the seasoning. It should be light to allow for the natural salinity of the salmon
Salted butter, softened
Smoked salmon slices
- Slice the brioche into 3 cm slices and toast lightly on both sides under the grill until light golden. Butter lightly.
- Place the brioche in the centre of the plates and top with the eggs then drape the smoked salmon slices on top.